Z750 Twin Forum

More goodies !!!!

Latest Chinese "take-away" ........

£14 delivered, the 4 alloy fittings alone from the UK would be £16 !

This is the actual Norvil fairing [ without headlamp cut out ]. Mainly somewhere to put all the switches, gauges and various controllers. I have ordered a smoke tinted screen and the suppliers will pre-fit and drill free. Cost £60 + screen

I am quite happy with the auxiliary pump set up now, and I am confident it will do the job. Much simpler now [ thanx for everybody's input ] and simple to duplicate.

I will modify one of the spare pumps I have to keep as a replacement spare.

I hope to have a spare frame soon [ courtesy  of KK ], then the mock up of the Glemseck engine can proceed properly.

So - update on progress, with some explanatory [ I hope ] pix.

Just to clarify my thinking on the Gixer externally driven pump -  A bit of imagination required !

First - the general layout - the Gixer end housing will bolt to / through the small circular alternator cover, giving me access to the alternator fixing screw which will require a slot to take the spade end of the Gixer spindle [ shortened to suit ]. That gives me both a bearing and seal for the drive. That in turn will allow me to use the stock Gixer drive sprocket and chain.

Finally the pump itself will have weld bung AN fittings welded in place.

While I was out there in my shed freezing - I decided to have a rough POC on the exhaust system using some random bends and a 2>1 collector I'd bought.

Again - imagination required - as it will be on the other side [ probably ]. As it's a real mission to turn the bike round now, I decided to go ahead on the side I had access to ! I can see with very little mods - it's definitely a goer. 

Unfortunately not with my welding  : Nothing has been cut or modified yet - and already it almost falls into place. Someone's smiling down on me. 

This side would probably "look good", but there's too much going on in that area with the pump, hoses, turbo etc. Although it would give me a better line into the turbo housing.  At some point in the near future I have to get the rolling chassis off the bench and onto my bike lift !!

Hi Tj,

that looks good !

Installing the exhaust at the right hand side will leave some more space at the left, which is required
Having the exhaust at right hand side, it will interfere with the kick starter in rest/upright position.

I am sure you will find a solution for that as well !

All the best,
Michael

Wow,
it becomes reality...great.

It will be surely not allowed on public roads anyway, right?

What about open exhausts, like the Red Baron in WW1 ?
Ok, you'll need rather good earplugs then - but imagine the flames...

Bye

Carsten

Michael / Carsten

As always I thank you for your interest

Michael NO kickstart - my right knee was badly damaged playing American Football !

However, the exhaust has to move in at a sharp angle behind the cylinder to join up with the turbo . 

The final decision is some time away after the bike is on the bike ramp. I want it too "look right" as well as function. The important thing is I can see it will be straightforward.

Carsten, yes it is now moving forward more quickly.

The bike WILL be used on the road !! Our regulations in the UK are much more relaxed. No lights is legal OK.

The turbo acts as a small ( !! ) silencer, if it really is too loud I will fit a tail mute - like Triumph trail bikes. And some Beetles ?

Flames ........... Ah yes, I am thinking about fitting an external wastegate ( on the GT 15 it is internal) with a separate exhaust - that will produce many flames!!!!

Sounds like you live in tuner's paradise...

In fact, I thought about open exhausts ending just after the turn... but I forgot the turbo

You'll do it right, I am sure.

Bye

Carsten

Carsten - we are VERY lucky in the UK ................  we do not have the problems like you have with TUV !

As long as a machine is safe, the UK tester [ MOT ] has discretion to pass a single vehicle.  However, it is beginning to get much stricter - in line with TUV. But maybe after Brexit we have no problems !

For many years I have worked with a German pal that makes Replica cars and when I was in business [ until 2002 ] he was my agent in Germany [ Cobra, Porsche, Jaguar replicas ]. He was always surprised at what we could do in the UK - The reverse was - we were always surprised at what HE had to do in Germany !

Today was a general checking out of my theories [!].

I also finalised the POC fitting of the exhaust.

By no means finished as I have not yet cut / modified any of the random bends I bought. I want the "welder" to check everything out first.

So, imagine the front pipe bends much tighter to the head and the 2 in to 1 collector will be parallel with the two pipes - just to clean up the aesthetics.

I have a good run into the turbo from this setup, but of course that cannot be finalised until the oil pump / hosing is in place. I still have the option of repeating this on the other side. 

Now I don't have to use the oil sump I bought [ !! ], I now have some extra space for the battery [ under swingarm ].

I will have to remove my electrics undertray and re-site all the components [ drat ], but that's just an annoyance rather than a problem.

Hi TJ,

looks good !

Thinking about displaying the bike, I assume it will have a side stand only, so it leans to the left.
Having the exhaust right hand side it will be more exposed

Without the kickstarter you are free to route the pipe to the turbo as you like or as needed or is feasable (passend / anwendungsorientiert).

As far as I known the many (small displacement) turbo blades will "chop/hack" the exhaust sound of a single cylinder into smaller portions.
The mighty "stroke" is gone, but the sound can be still loud.

Throwing flames is a highlight

Good luck, Michael

MIchael - thanx for the headsup on the alternator bolts.

The engine I am getting from KK is a late engine with the larger diameter bolt. Also has the electronic ignition.

Yes you are correct about the turbo - it changes the exhaust note quite dramatically - and acts like a small silencer [ not too quiet ! ].

I do have an alternative position for the pump - but I cannot check this until the bike is on the lift.

I hope to move the rolling chassis from my bench in the shed up to my garage where I have the hydraulic lift - then I can check both sides at the same time !  

It will not happen for a few weeks as I have a major clear up to do in my garage - it is very untidy at the moment !

Some more goodies arrived.

A very good quality boost gauge [ from Chinabay ] £4.95 !!! yes £4.95 - delivered in one week.

And a second fairing -  an "Avon Speedflow" race fairing from the 70's era.

I will probably use this as I need somewhere to put all the gauges. switches, and nitrous oxide controller    

I started to dismantle my engine yesterday - just the cases and covers I need for my mock up.

I can see what you mean by "dome" over the alternator Michael ! 

I imagined that the "plate" was a separate part.

Actually that makes it much simpler to align the centre hole for the pump drive as the 3 fixing screws are centralised on the crankshaft end.

However, there are several different options for the pump location, so I will not do any more "thinking" until the bike is on the bike ramp. I can see that there are possibilities from both locations [ ignition and alternator ].

Driving off the ignition side is simple, but now I have the choice I will concentrate on the exhaust and once that is finished - the pump location will become obvious.