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Torque sequence and values for cam cover
Verfasst: Di 8. Dez 2015, 04:20
von Iceman
Hello everyone
Was wondering what torque sequence and torque values to use on engine in 1983 KZ750 Twin K. My engine case # is: KZ750BE064...
I have the values from a manual posted on our friends site taken from the "1978 Full with 80 & 81 Supplement". The values are 95- 113 in/lbs and torque sequence are (not sure my wrench has the in-lb setting. I know it has the ft-lbs setting):
cylinder head cover bolt tightening sequence by
david_m_22046, on Flickr
RE: Torque sequence and values for cam cover
Verfasst: Di 8. Dez 2015, 10:01
von Michael
Hi Iceman,
the tightening sequence is shown at the right hand picture that you've posted.
I Have no idea how the imperial values have to be converted into each other.
The metric value is 11 to 13 Nm, which is quite low.
If your torque wrench is a large one, goes to 80 or 100 Nm or even higher, don't use it !
I don't use a torque wrench for these screws at all.
Be aware that you are fixing a cover that's only purpose is to keep dirt and water out and engine oil in.
No mechanical functionality to fix bearings, etc. related to it !
The steel screws go into the soft aluminium of the cylinder head.
Do not overtighten these screws as that will surely ruin the thread in the head (which is very bad) and not the screw (which could be replaced easily).
It is recommended to apply a bit of "fluid rubber" gasket/sealing onto the area where the four rubber "half moons" sit.
Best done by applying the fluid gasket onto your finger and apply with the finger to that area. Not directly out of the container.
Worst thing that can happen, when you tighten the screws a bit to loose, is that a bit of oil (hot oil mist/fog?) may pass the gasket.
Discovering that, wipe the oil off and tighten the dedicated screw a bit more firmly.
You may use a short manual wrench.
Go through the tightening sequence several times (at least 3 times) with low force to ensure the cover is seated evenly.
Finally use your feeling to tighten the screws to same torque ;-)
Good luck !
Cheers, Michael
RE: Torque sequence and values for cam cover
Verfasst: Di 8. Dez 2015, 21:39
von Iceman
Michael hat geschrieben:
Hi Iceman,
the tightening sequence is shown at the right hand picture that you've posted.
I Have no idea how the imperial values have to be converted into each other.
The metric value is 11 to 13 Nm, which is quite low.
If your torque wrench is a large one, goes to 80 or 100 Nm or even higher, don't use it !
I don't use a torque wrench for these screws at all.
Be aware that you are fixing a cover that's only purpose is to keep dirt and water out and engine oil in.
No mechanical functionality to fix bearings, etc. related to it !
The steel screws go into the soft aluminium of the cylinder head.
Do not overtighten these screws as that will surely ruin the thread in the head (which is very bad) and not the screw (which could be replaced easily).
It is recommended to apply a bit of "fluid rubber" gasket/sealing onto the area where the four rubber "half moons" sit.
Best done by applying the fluid gasket onto your finger and apply with the finger to that area. Not directly out of the container.
Worst thing that can happen, when you tighten the screws a bit to loose, is that a bit of oil (hot oil mist/fog?) may pass the gasket.
Discovering that, wipe the oil off and tighten the dedicated screw a bit more firmly.
You may use a short manual wrench.
Go through the tightening sequence several times (at least 3 times) with low force to ensure the cover is seated evenly.
Finally use your feeling to tighten the screws to same torque ;-)
Good luck !
Cheers, Michael
As usual, thank you for this valuable info. Michael. Good to hear from you again. Hope you are well.
I was not aware that the cylinder head was aluminum so that I need to be extremely careful tightening the steel bolts. This is good to know
Thank you as well for the fluid rubber sealant recommendation as I do have a bit of oil seeping through one or two of the half moons. Not too much but it is noticeable.
That seems to be the only issue w/ the bike as I just replaced all 4 back-light bulbs for the tachometer and speedometer meters this afternoon. They have never worked since I got the bike but I've been reluctant to remove the Headlight as that is where much of the wiring is located and didn't want to knock anything loose. Plus, my local mechanic was able to find a generic pipe to replace my rusted-out exhaust crossover pipe with.
On another note. Saw a KZ750E w/ the cafe racer-type rear fairing for sale in Maryland but I'm short on cash so had to let it go
It had dual front disc brake and single rear disc break (easy to access) and was 4-cylinders. Heres a pic:
